New Orleans Black Indians visit Flagstaff

S.J. Wilson/Observer
Chief Victor Harris approaches a ramada at FlagstaffÕs Bushmaster Park before performing with his tribal members.

S.J. Wilson/Observer Chief Victor Harris approaches a ramada at FlagstaffÕs Bushmaster Park before performing with his tribal members.

FLAGSTAFF -- Reverend Bill Carson, Chief Victor Harris and other members of the Mardi Gras Tribe of New Orleans traveled to northern Arizona as part of a cultural exchange visit. The song, dance and story troupe included 10 youth from 8 to 15 years of age, drummers, dancers and storytellers. The troupe met with members of groups including Youth of the Peaks, Native Movement, ECHOES (Educating Communities while Healing and Offering Environmental Support), Save the Peaks Coalition and friends and supporters.

Harris and his troupe stopped activity at Bushmaster Park as they approached a food-laden ramada where close to 70 people waited. Harris was completely covered in beadwork and shell bedecked finery. He is what is known as a "Big Chief" in the Mardi Gras Indian tradition.

The Mardi Gras Indians, who emerged on the New Orleans scene in the late 1800s have featured beaded and feathered regalia modeled after Native American ceremonial dress. These outfits can weigh more than 100 pounds. Some of the so-called Black Indians were of Native American descent, as a result of escaped slaves who were either married into or simply accepted into the local tribal groups -- mostly the Seminole.

Ashton Ramsey, a 71 year-old storyteller and historian, spoke of the troupe's visit to the Yavapai and Hopi tribes on August 8 and 9.

He said he was especially impressed with Ruben Saufkie and his three sons, who performed an eagle dance for the New Orleans hurricane survivors.

Ramsey is famous for his hats and clothing -- that feature collages incorporated into costume to tell stories. In listening to his descriptions -- vivid as paintings it's easy to imagine the fabulous images of Mardi Gras that many here in northern Arizona have only viewed in the media.

One of Ramsey's costumes includes images from the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina.

"There are pictures of a child in a car seat perched on a broken bridge, another of a lady sitting in her night clothes, her hair matted to her head," Ramsey said.

Where many see the negative in the surreal images left in the wake of Katrina, Ramsey prefers to see the bright side.

"Some people came out from Massachusetts, and the first thing they saw were these boats scattered all over the city," Ramsey said. [The boats were carried in on the tide and were left behind when the tide receded.] "They thought they were ugly. Me, I thought they were beautiful. What I see is the desperation. Many saw the looters as the bad guys, but they were the first response. They got the people out at night. They used their boats to take people to safety."

Ramsey spoke of a half million people crossing a bridge to escape the heat, devastation and mosquitoes that plagued New Orleans victims.

"When they crossed over that bridge, the sheriff's department shot shotguns and turned the people back," he said.

Ramsey also recalled the history that gave birth to the Black Indians of New Orleans.

"Native Americans and slaves got together in Congo Square on Sundays. That was the slaves' only day off," Ramsey said. "They sold dresses, beadwork and headscarves. They jumped the broom [the marriage ceremony practiced by slaves]. The Native Americans taught us their culture and we taught them ours."

Eventually, the cultures combined as local native tribes took in escaped slaves.

Carson expanded on this history.

"Native people received us, offering freedom," Carson said. "We aligned ourselves with Native Americans."

Of the tribe's chief, Carson said that Harris was called by the Spirit to step forward as spiritual leader.

"Our chief doesn't wear a crown, he wears a halo," Carson said.

Radmilla Cody, former Miss Navajo Nation, said she was honored to meet and perform for the entourage. Cody herself is of Navajo and African American ancestry.

"This is an honor to hear your beautiful voices," Cody said.

She shared her experiences of being a member of two cultures.

"When I was with Black folks, I wanted to please them. I was criticized for being Navajo," Cody continued. "When I was with the Navajo, I was criticized for being Black. In our society the women carry on the clan.

"One day I decided to participate in the Miss Navajo pageant," Cody said. "It is not a beauty pageant. It is a contest based on culture and Navajo ways. I butchered a sheep for my skill. I am proud to be who I am. I have embraced womanhood in a way that I know who I am. Yes, I have had adversity in my life, but I carry the positive."

Cody went on to share Navajo songs with the New Orleans visitors.

Other local community members -- natives and transplants -- shared songs with the visitors. Evon Peter, a chief of the Gwitch'in Arctic Village, offered a song, then joined Klee Benally, Clayson Benally and Kelvin Long (all DinŽ) at a drum, offering a song of resistance turned celebratory.

"We saw what happened to you in New Orleans," Klee Benally said. "This wasn't the first time that the government has given up on your community. We weren't with you, but we were with you in our hearts.

"It's good to be with you, working with the youth of different tribes. We look forward to the future and the progress that's going to happen. It's good that you've come here to be with us. We have been through a lot of struggles, but through our children we unite."

Close to 50 people gathered in the grass to dance well into the darkness before the Mardi Gras Tribe reluctantly retired to their vehicles to continue their journey.

The cultural exchange visit was coordinated by Jacob Devaney and Elizabeth Newman, Arizona White Buffalo Children's Foundation.

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